Chef Ryan Shilton is raising the bar for fine dining in the heart of Lichfield with the opening of his new restaurant, Larder, this week.
Sauce were invited along to a preview evening at the freshly renovated premises, which sits next door to Bore Street Bakery. On the ground floor there’s a bar exclusively for restaurant guests where we’re served a biscuity Hattingley Valley sparkling wine from Hampshire alongside two snacks – a goat’s cheese and basil tartlet and venison tartare with pear – which set the tone for the evening’s rich gastronomic offering.
There’s an extensive list of Old and New World wines to choose from, as well as a good selection of beers (including locally brewed Freedom lager), spirits and liqueurs. We order before being shown upstairs, where the intimate dining room takes up the first floor.
With comfortable chairs upholstered in teal and grey, dark wood, plush carpet and gold accented accessories, it feels suitably sumptuous without being over the top. Which is a description you could equally apply to the food – like the bite of pork belly with apple and ginger purée that appears promptly on our table, skewered on chef’s plating tweezers.
We are treated first to monkfish, lettuce and tartare sauce, followed by barbecued wagyu brisket with a smoky black garlic purée and enoki mushrooms. Next up is celeriac three ways – baked, pickled and raw – with oregano and a delicious Lincolnshire Poacher sauce. Everything is served on bespoke handmade ceramics from a potter friend of Ryan’s, and it’s obvious that care and attention has gone into every detail, such as the unusual Portuguese cutlery.
The menu’s crescendo is perfectly pink Creedy Carver duck with onion, peppercorn sauce and a silky mousse that Ryan explains is made from roast potatoes and duck fat. The palate cleansing pre-dessert is probably the most tastebud-challenging – lime curd with the texture of avocado served with bitter curried caramel, meringue and a very hoppy IPA jelly. Dessert would satisfy any sweet tooth, however, consisting of chocolate ganache, hazelnut ice cream and a maple vinegar jam.
Afterwards we head upstairs for a peek at the very calm and collected second floor, where guests will soon be able to enjoy a chef’s table experience sitting in the kitchen itself. The apparently unflappable Ryan recently left his position at the three-rosette Four Seasons at Swinfen Hall Hotel to open Larder, where he has freedom to showcase the best seasonal British produce on his own terms. When it opens later this week, the restaurant will offer lunch Thursday to Saturday, with five and seven course tasting menus on offer during evening service, and a three course Sunday lunch. Choice and vegetarian menus will also be available.
With exceptional food, a relaxed atmosphere and attentive but unobtrusive service, Larder is sure to become a popular fine dining destination for lucky Lichfield locals and no doubt will attract attention from further afield.
17 Bore Street, Lichfield, Staffordshire, WS13 6LZ